12/2/2023 0 Comments Focus stacking in affinity photoThe sharpening is done via AI Sharpen under Auto mode for the shots in the stack. Of course the distant move maybe insignificant, but the focus plane will have slice through a small amount of depth of the moon. Just take it as if the camera is on stable and the subject (the moon) is on the rail and you slowly crank the subject. I thought I need not explain all these and so omitted the details, as I am interested to share the process not so much as to explain why it can be done. These is like macro focus stacking, shifting the rail but here the subject moves and the gears is stationery (Here is where the gear must be absolutely stablized, while in macro focus stacking the subject must be stable and the rail moves with the same FL and same Focus point). It is getting the sharpest portion out of each shots and with enough of them to fill the entire face.Īs the video reveals, the moon face shift from bottom to top or vice versa around a total of 60 shots. I am using EFCS which is completely still and on my A7R4 also completely silent (Silent mode).įocus Stacking is not a lucky attempt. I have tried many different fstop as well as SS and personally, these are the best values I have found, so it could be a personal preference or experience. Why f11-f14? Not for DoF but for cutting back the overly bright spots, the moon face is still like a reflector of the sun ray and much details can be blurred by the overwhelming highlight. One of the many I got from one shooting session. The video is done to show the process not the final image, sorry about that, I should have added this. This is crop to 1400x1400 pixels - stack from 49 shots. With 400 mm focal length you can use about 1/8 second for the moon without visible smearing, due to Earth's rotation, so this is not an argument here where we talk about 1/250 sec or faster shutter speed.DOF is a non-issue for moon photography.At f:11 and f:14 diffraction comes into play with high resolution sensors, smoothing out finest detail.Modern telephoto lenses are just as sharp wide open in the center as when stopped down, and because of turbulent air you will rarely exploit the full potential of the lens.It's impressive to check this advance by framing the moon touching one side of the frame and looking how fast it moves out of the frame (tripod mounted cam). To remember, the Moon "advances" in 1 minute virtually by its diameter. Afterall the difference in distance between the surface and the moon's visible perimeter is about some 1,700km "only" compared to an overall distance in the range of 300,000km - so hardly any DOF issue.Īnd any possible gain in sharpness by the used lens when stopping a bit down (if the lens' characteristics really show this gain) should be carefully balanced against the smearing caused as mentioned above by turbulent air but also by the Earth's rotation which gets a relevant factor the longer the used FL. Why f:11 to f:14? Bad advice! Use brighter aperture, so that you can use as fast shutter speed as possible to reduce smearing of fine detail caused by turbulent air!Īt least for DOF purposes certainly no need for stopping down that far. Stacked using Autostakkiert (which chops each image into thousands of small, overlapping patches and stacks the best percentage of those instead). This is a 50-image stack, shot APS-C mode with a small 90mm Maskutov reflector. There's an element of super-resolution comes into play too. This gives a final image that is the sum of all the sharpest parts of the captured sequence. When people "stack" moon shots, it's a version of "lucky imaging" where several (sometime hundreds) of quick, consecutive shots are aligned, and a certain percentage of the least blurry images, or least blurry parts of the images are added together. Turbulent air makes the image shimmer and wobble, causing motion blur and fuzzy spots at random locations. I do see people stacking moon shots quite often but I’ve not understood why. Is there much benefit when stacking a moon? I’m curious, does focus stacking improve the sharpness of the photo? I’m used to stacking with macro but that’s a different focus depths.
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